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The Niçois are in some ways the
Parisiens of the south. A difference perhaps being that
the rarely needed fur coats may well be dyed purple, and
the clothes and makeup of the 'grandes bourgeosies' are
far more colourful than those of their northern sisters.
Yet there is an underlying character, an independent
spirit, which rejects the central governing influence
emanating from Paris. The Niçoise do what the Niçoise
want to do, as and when they want to do it.
Nice occasionally rouses itself from its appearance of
genteel torpor. Even as early in the year as February
there's an elaborate three-week carnival held with its 'Batailles
des Fleurs' (Battle of Flowers). And from then on
through spring, summer there's always something going
on, perhaps the big one being the
Jazz Festival at Cimiez in July
Nice is sophisticated, has all of
life's luxuries, and a superb setting on the Baie des
Anges ( the Bay of Angels) facing
Antibes , yet it is nonetheless discreetly
mediterranean in its way of doing municipal business. In
the 1970's,
Graham Greene , a long time resident from across the
bay, wrote a controversial pamphlet entitled "J'Accuse!"
which highlighted some of the things he saw as
questionable practices. He subsequently lost his libel
case.
To be fair, though many of the ways of doing business
may be dubbed creative, the city of Nice has some
glorious architecture, a superb promenade and access to
some truly beautiful
villages perched up in the valleys which cut through
the mountains to the north. And as home to the France's
second busiest airport it's probably one of the easiest
and comfortable mediterranean destinations to visit and
find out for yourself. |